What is Bagru Hand Block Printing? Natural Dyes, Motifs & Why It Matters
Bagru hand block printing is a 400-year-old traditional printing practice of Rajasthan’s Bagru village. It has held a GI (Geographical Indication) tag since 2010.
Before the arrival of fast fashion and the prevalence of synthetic dyes in our wardrobes, Rajasthani craftsmen used to press carved wooden blocks into lightweight cloths after dipping the blocks into natural dyes, printing the motifs and designs beautifully.
At Noolagam, all the sarees combine elegance with comfort for the daily commute to the office and the market. Bagru hand block printing in a Kota Doria saree or other handloom saree can be the best choice for your busy workdays or even for the festival gatherings.
History of Bagru Hand Block Printing
Before we buy or drape a saree, “a six yards of grace”, we need to know its story. Every saree has a different story, and it urges you to tell it while you are taking a sip of coffee, wearing the saree.
Coming to the Bagru hand block printing, the first question that came to our mind is, what is the reason behind the name, ‘Bagru’? Bagru is a small Rajasthani village located 35 kilometers south-west of Jaipur, from where this hand block printing originated.
400 years of Tradition
This printing work meticulously used the carved wooden blocks as stamps and natural elements as dyes. “Dabu” printing, or mud-resistant printing, is a unique work here. Eco-friendly cotton or silk fabrics printed with eco-friendly natural dyes are something that can perfectly answer the present-day concerns about climate-stressing practices.
A Journey with Bagru Hand Block Printing
Have you ever visited Bagru village? Even today, you can find freshly dyed clothes hung on ropes or laid out across the river banks for sun-drying. The flavour of hand printing, with specific amounts of water and sun, and the smell of natural dyes hold the touch of tradition in every thread of the saree.
A question strikes here, “Why is the process called labour-intensive and time-demanding?”
At Noolagam, we directly source from artisan clusters without any middlemen. Holding our roots, we can share the hard work of artisans in making a saree, in a step-by-step manner:
|
Steps |
Stages |
What happens |
Key Ingredient/tools |
|
1 |
Saaj — pre-treatment |
Raw fabric is washed multiple times to strip factory chemicals and impurities, then soaked in a harda solution to prepare it to hold the dye. |
Harda (myrobalan fruit) — provides natural tannin as a mordant |
|
2 |
Carving of wooden blocks |
Artisans hand-carve wooden blocks with the main motifs and border patterns that will be used throughout the printing process. |
Hand-carved wooden blocks |
|
3 |
Dabu — mud-resist printing |
A resist paste is pressed onto the fabric using carved blocks to mask certain areas, preventing dye from reaching those portions. |
Dabu paste — clay, wheat chaff, slaked lime, and natural tree-resin gum |
|
4 |
Natural dye bath |
The entire fabric is immersed in natural dye. Dye penetrates only the exposed areas; Dabu-masked areas remain undyed. Repeated multiple times to enrich colour depth. |
Natural/botanical dyes |
|
5 |
Washing — Dabu removal |
The fabric is washed thoroughly under running water to remove the Dabu paste, revealing the undyed resist-printed areas beneath. |
Running water |
|
6 |
Detailed block printing |
After drying, craftsmen apply additional colours onto the newly revealed undyed portions using fine block-printing work to complete the design. |
Carved blocks, additional natural-dye colours |
|
7 |
Sun drying — final wash |
A final wash is followed by open-air sun drying. Sunlight acts as the best natural fixative for botanical dyes, completing the process after 7–14 days of work. |
Open sunlight — natural colour fixative |
Natural dyes in the printing process
The amazing touch of tradition is not only restricted to its handcrafted printing or natural dyes, but also in the designs and motifs.
The dyes are generally biodegradable, non-toxic, and skin-friendly, and do not contain any harsh chemicals or metallic compounds.
The earthy warmth of a Bagru print belongs to its terracottas, its indigoes, its deep blacks and dusty pinks. These are not a curated aesthetic. It is the natural colour range of the botanical world.
Noolagam emphasized authenticity as well as comfort. We believe that sarees are not for keeping inside your wardrobes but to wear and flaunt at every place.
Iconic motifs in the Bagru Print Sarees
From the Bel (vine/creeper) to Jaal (lattice/Net), the Bagru motifs are designed from nature and geometry as found in the regular lives. From small Butti motifs to floral or Phool motifs, all go around the same concept.
Another visual characteristic of the Bagru motif is the natural texture of cracks from the Dabu paste. It makes every Bagru print saree genuinely, irreproducibly unique.
How do you identify an authentic Bagru print saree?
If you are confused about the authenticity of your Bagru hand block printed sarees, you can go for a search for slight irregularities in the patterns or motifs, which is only possible in the hand block printing, not in the machine printing. An earthy colour palette and the Dabu crackle textures can add more gravity.
Noolagam’s Promise
At Noolagam, we believe that handcrafted fabric should be lived in, not saved for occasions that may never come.
The Kota Doria Bagru print sarees in our collection are exclusively sourced from the artisans of Rajasthan, directly. The promise of authenticity is crafted in every thread, every motif, and in every saree that you would drape.
Bagru hand block printing can be the best choice for looking effortless and elegant on your weekday mornings, as well as in a festive gathering.
For purchasing a comfortable yet elegant Kota Doria Bagru Saree, contact us.
FAQs:
1. What is Bagru hand block printing?
Bagru hand block printing is a traditional printing method that uses hand-carved blocks and natural dyes to print sarees and other clothes. It is distinguished by the Dabu, mud-resisting dyeing process, and has held the GI (Geographical Indication) tag since 2010.
2. What makes Bagru printing different from other Indian block printing?
The touch of rural Chippa artisans, the use of natural dyes, and the Dabu mud-resisting technologies make the Bagru printing different from other Indian block printing.
3. How long does it take to make a Bagru print saree?
It takes nearly 7-14 days of hard work and patience to complete the dyeing, hand printing, washing, drying, and final making of the Bagru print saree.
4. Do Bagru natural dye colours fade over time?
With proper care and preservation, you can decline the speed of fading of the colours of natural dyes. To preserve colour, wash in cold water with a mild detergent, dry in shade, and avoid prolonged sunlight exposure after purchase.
5. Can I wear a Bagru saree every day?
Absolutely, you can wear a Bagru print saree every day and on every occasion, pairing it with moderate accessories and an elegant watch. At Noolagam, we believe in handcrafted fabrics only to preserve tradition and elegance at the same time.
