Hand Block Printed Saree Guide: Bagru vs Ajrakh vs Dabu

Looking for a genuine hand block printed saree? You’ll likely come across three names: Bagru, Ajrakh, and Dabu. You may think these three hand block printed sarees are similar, but they are not. 

Each one of these sarees is crafted in different states of India by different communities and holds distinct characteristics. Understanding their unique features, printing patterns, and use of various techniques can help you to pick the right one for you.

At Noolagam, you can get authentic Bagru print sarees, Ajrakh print sarees, and Dabu print sarees, directly sourced from the weaver clusters and artisans.

What Makes a Hand Block Printed Saree Different From a Machine Print 

A genuine hand block printed saree comes with little imperfections that prove the human touch. Irregularities in printing patterns, slightly uneven repeats of designs, subtle colour dyes, and the natural texture of cotton sarees. These irregularities prove the authenticity of hand block printed cotton sarees.

On the other hand, machine-printed sarees show uniform patterns with flawless designs. You can easily differentiate between hand block printed sarees and machine printed sarees.

The quality of cotton sarees, small irregularities, natural dyes, and use of hand-carved blocks give special features to a hand block printed cotton saree which are not found in a fabric made by machine.

Bagru Print Saree: A Hand Block printed saree of Rajasthan

Bagru print saree is originally crafted in the village of Bagru, near Jaipur, Rajasthan, by the Chippa community. Hand-carved wooden blocks are used to print those sarees with natural dyes. Repeated washing and dyeing, along with the open-air sun drying steps, add human touches to those sarees. 

In Bagru print sarees, motifs vary from floral to geometrical shapes, each placed with generous spacing in between. 

Noolagam believes that sarees are not for storing in your wardrobes; rather, sarees are comfortable apparel that can be designed for your daily commute. If you are looking for a lightweight and hand block printed cotton saree for office days or daily commute, Bagru print sarees are the best options for you.

 

Ajrakh Print Saree: A both-sided Hand Block printed saree

Ajrak or Ajrakh print sarees come from Kutch in Gujarat and the regions of Sindh. This is generally crafted by the Khatri community. 

Ajrakh print sarees stand at a distinct position due to their two-sided dyeing practice. This produces an identical print for both the front and back sides of sarees. 

Why are Ajrakh print sarees costlier?

The process of making a piece of Ajrakh print saree is the most labour-intensive work among all hand block printed sarees. The process can take nearly 16 steps of washing, mordanting, dyeing, block printing, and drying. This hard work in making Ajrakh sarees justifies its higher price range. 

Noolagam deals with weaver clusters directly to enhance genuine sourcing and selling. You can find authentic Ajrakh print sarees here as we source directly from the weavers without any middleman.

 

Dabu Print Saree: A mud-resistant Hand Block printed saree of Rajasthan

Dabu print saree, closely linked with Bagru print, is another hand block printed saree from Rajasthan. It is also practised by the Chippa community. 

However, instead of direct block print in Bagru sarees, craftsmen use a mud-resist paste made of clay, lime, gum, and wheat chaff and apply that paste with the help of blocks. This practice makes sure that the dye cannot reach those mud-printed areas, making those parts appear as soft and slightly diffused motifs. 

After several dyeing, washing, and sun-drying cycles, those motifs become prominent but with little inconsistencies, making the Dabu print saree unique.

At Noolagam, you can find Dabu print sarees directly sourced from weaver clusters and genuine pieces of tradition instead of any machine-printed, copied version.

 

Bagru vs Ajrakh vs Dabu at a Glance

How to Spot an Authentic Hand Block Printed Saree

There are a couple of tests that apply to all three kinds. You can spot minor irregularities in the print in the genuine hand block printed sarees. On the other hand, a uniform pattern is usually produced by the machine printing process. 

You should test the depth of the colour on the back side of the fabric. Also, you should check if the seller can identify the artisans' group, since a real hand block printed saree will always come from an authentic place and artisan clusters.

Conclusion

Bagru, Ajrakh, and Dabu are three separate crafts, not three types of the same printing style. Once you know how each of the hand-block printed sarees is really made and the printing processes, then making a choice becomes a lot easier. 

You can pick the best-suited hand block printed saree at Noolagam. Every saree in our range comes with the name of the artisan groups who have crafted it and also the name of the printing cluster.

FAQs

1. What is the difference between a Bagru print saree and a Dabu print saree? 

While both Bagru and Dabu print sarees are crafted in the Bagru belt of Rajasthan by the same Chippa community, there is a unique difference between these two printing processes. A Bagru print saree is printed directly onto the cloth with hand-carved wooden blocks and natural dyes. A Dabu print saree, on the other hand, employs a mud paste that blocks certain parts of the fabric before it gets dyed. Thus, blocked areas remain undyed and give softer and more diffused motifs.

2. Is an Ajrakh print saree the same as Ajrak? 

Yes, Ajrak and Ajrakh are different spellings of the same hand block printed sarees from Kutch, Gujarat, and Sindh.

3. How do I know if I'm buying a genuine hand block printed saree? 

You can look for the slightest inconsistencies in the repeat of the print, the depth of the colour on the reverse side of the fabric, and ask the artisan group or the printer from whom the hand block printed saree is purchased.

4. Which is more expensive, Bagru, Ajrakh, or Dabu? 

Ajrakh is always the costliest one because of the sixteen-stage procedure required for it. The Bagru and Dabu print sarees are generally available at a lower cost.